Last year, while driving in Arctic Norway, we were very aware of the outstanding scenery and quiet roads of the Lofoten Islands. In early June of this year, I drove again across the Arctic Circle, starting at Bodo, from where a fourhour ferry voyage takes you to Moskenes (there is a komune
on this particular island).
Just down the road is Å, where there is a thriving fishing community and fish is still dried in the open air on huge frames. From there the drive leads north, frequently stopping to admire stunning views of jagged mountain peaks reflected in the blue water.
On many nights we watched the midnight sun turn the landscape orange, besides seeing another days beginning! All summer from late May there is 24-hour daylight, which has the advantage of giving you a longer days sightseeing.
Back in 1963 when we cycled the Norwegian Arctic Highway to North Cape on a tandem with a trailer, it was mostly a gravel road. This route is now the E6 and has been upgraded – it now has good surfaces with better gradients. The road crosses wild unspoilt landscapes of snow-capped mountains and then follows the same mighty rivers that flow into the fjords.
Joining the E6 on the edge of Ranafjord, the route follows the river Rana to its source high on the plateau, through which crosses the Arctic Circle. Before gaining that height, many miles of pine-clad mountainsides and farming komunes can be enjoyed, with distant mountains on the horizon.
At Skogly there are plenty of Hyttes (chalets) for an overnight stop before the next days crossing of the Arctic Circle. One Hytte has disabled access. The valley broadens after Skogly as the komune of Krogen is reached, and soon the road rises above the tree line on to the wild open plateau.
At the Arctic Circle there is now a Heritage Centre, which was just a hut in 1963. Useful
should you need a warm or some food. Now the drive north is actually in the Arctic, and after
the long gradual descent the valley opens into green fields at Bleiknesmo where there was once
a hostel. I was able to drive to the northernmost island, and from the Komune of Bleik, went on a Puffin Safari.
At Medby, a left turn follows a cross-country route to Ljones, from whence you can view the Tide Race at Straumen. Then join the main road to Bodo for an overnight stay at the hostel or campsite. We stayed self-catering in Hyttes for a reasonable cost, while petrol at present is about the same as in the UK. •Any member wanting detailed information can contact Reg on 01454 772804.